Saturday, July 13, 2013

Trogir to Split - Our last sailing day

We were up at 0700h and on our way to the old town by 0830h. Trogir is beautifully set within medieval walls. Its streets are knotted and maze like. We stopped at a waterfront cafe for a splendid breakfast.


After that I stopped at a Pharmacy to get more antibiotics to see me through the rest of the vacation. No prescription, no problem! $1.75 for another refill. 

We made our way to the Cathedral of St. Lovro to explore the inside. A fabulous building.



We then climbed the bell tower. An interesting combination of claustrophobic staircase and open metal stairs. Definitely nothing that would meet any kind of building code. I was surprised that Chris made it to the top but the view was terrific. 





We ventured to the market to get some bread for lunch. Another vibrant open air market.





We explored some more alleyways and fortifications. 



At 1130h we had to return to the boat for our trip to return the boat to the charter base at Split. Another low wind day so we motored for the three hour trip. We had to return the boat with full fuel so we ended up in a holding pattern at the fuel dock for an hour, waiting our turn.

We were one of the first boats returning and underwent our check in procedure. We a a couple of little wear and tear issues and was anticipating a hassle over the damage deposit. The base manager was reasonable and we settled on a very minor sum. 

We missed this opportunity to but a trailer load of beer and drinks from a departing crew for $35.


We had time for a quick shower and had time for one quick drink in the cockpit before we had to say goodbye to Jim, Sharon, Sue and Bob and depart via taxi for our ferry trip to Ancona Italy. 



We were waved out of the harbour at 2030h by the crew and the base manager.


You can follow our Tuscan adventure at:

http/bellavistatuscany.blogspot.com/

Here are everyone's individual quick synopsis of the adventure:

Captain Jim:


Red tile roofs, walled cities, narrow streets, marble squares, crumbling buildings, beautiful churches. Friendly people, helpful people, fashionably dressed, all Caucasian, most speak good English. Fresh food, local markets, best mussels, fresh oysters, Amberjack, octopus cakes, Karlvachio beer, grappa, unremarkable (but drinkable) local wine, lunches on the boat from the galley slaves. Rocky islands, olive trees and vineyards. More sailboats than the BVI's, deep water, big wind shifts, lots of motoring, med mooring with lazy lines, $75 to anchor for lunch. Best part - getting together with people we don't see often enough.


First Mate Chris:


Sampling Croatian food (fish, lamb, veal, octopus, pasta); traditional Croatian meal peka  (under the bell); friendly, helpful, smiling people of Croatia;  seeing the different landscapes/towns/villages from the barren Kornati islands to the vibrant towns of Hvar and Dubrovnik; swimming in quiet anchorages; spending two weeks sailing with good friends.

Quartermaster and Galley Slave Sue:


Having wanted to sail the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia for many years, that dream has now come true and all my expectations have been exceeded. I strongly recommend Croatia to all you sailors and dreamers.

Purser and Chef (Galley Slave) and Medic Sharon:


Beautiful medieval walls, towns, turquoise waters, rock, rock, rocky shores. No sand beaches. Warm, helpful people. Tough language to learn even for please and thank you. Fish, fish, fish & meat menus.

Boswain Jim:


Outstanding trip. Great historic sites; excellent food; Croatia is far more interesting place than I imagined; fun trip with our crew and Steve's boat in the flotilla; here's to good friendship; excellent swim stops; love the oyster and mussels straight out of the sea for dinner on board; cleaning the Amberjack on the dock.

Safety & Environmental Officer Bob:


Some great sail days; superb historical location visits; outstanding dinners at colourful small port Konobas. Only two medical emergencies. The camaraderie of good friends. 

Friday, July 12, 2013

Stari Grad to Trogir - July 11

Today's destination was the city of Trogir which dates back to a Greek settlement of 380 BC. We motored out of the bay at Stari Grad for a 12 mile run to Bol beach on Brac Is. 





We went ashore to explore the beach but ended up cutting that short as it was a pebble beach and our feet couldn't stand it for walking very far.  The water was very nice for swimming and even Sue made it in. 

We lunched on the boat and then set sail for Trogir. The sail along the south shore of Brac island was beautiful. Vineyards dotted the island's south slopes. 


This was one of our best sails on a beam reach in 15 kn winds. 


As we passed Solta Is, the winds diminished and became on the nose so we had to revert to motoring. We ended up racing a thunderstorm to the Marina at Trogir. 



Captain Steve on Rok, was a half hour behind us and ended up entertaining the marina by trying to med moor with the mainsail up (couldn't see it from under the Bimini).


 Expert recovery and no damage done.

The group from both boats met in the old town at Restaurant Kamerlengo for a final meal together. 


Chris and I made the mistake of ordering the Mediterranean grill which should have been named "mountain of meat".


It was good but way too much. Everyone had a great time. 


After dinner we walked around town and found a few places with live music. 



Beautiful waterfront with lots of mega yachts. 




Thursday, July 11, 2013

Korcula to Stari Grad - July 10

Today's sail was about 50 miles so we were off early at 0800h. We had a great view of Korcula from the water as we departed.


Winds were light again and we had to motorsail until later in the afternoon. We decided to cruise along the shoreline of Hvar Is so we would have something to look at. Rocky peaks with vineyards in the valleys. 



We passed by Hvar Town again and rounded the western tip of Hvar Is and sailed downwind to the town of Stari Grad. This is one of the oldest towns in Croatia. Beautiful harbour....




Bob and Sue enjoying the views.....


We ventured ashore for supper at Bistro Kodak Damira. Stuffed schnitzel and mussels, great!


After a round of gelato, we returned to Faros and enjoyed the lights of the harbour.





Sipan Is to Korcula - July 9

We started our day with a little exploratory tour of Sipan. 



We climbed the hill to have a look at the church and an overview of the harbour. 




Winds were light again and we ended up having to motor the 36 miles to the walled ancient city of Korcula, home of Marco Polo. Along the way we passed many small wooden cruise boats that are a popular way to tour the coastal islands. 


We also passed one of the largest mega yachts I have ever seen. Note how it dwarfs the town in the background. 


We anchored in a bay that was a 15 minute walk from the heart of the old town. 


Again, many narrow alleys, fortifications and a 13th century Cathedral and Marco Polo's tower.









We walked the town and ended up at a waterfront Konoba for cold beers.


We ended up at another waterfront restaurant for pizza and pasta supper and returned to Faros for the night.